Dark 'n Stormy
As Halloween approaches (don’t worry, a creepy, crawly post is coming next week!) I’ve started gravitating towards moodier, edgier jewelry. I’ve been particularly drawn to pieces with a patina that feel worn and imperfect. As a vintage and antique jewelry lover the patina on a particular piece feels like the most precious indication that its had many lifetimes of love and importance. I particularly love Georgian (1714-1837) and Victorian (1837-1901) jewelry. Made using silver and gold, the silver, over time, becomes oxidized, darkening and creating a beautiful contrast against diamonds and gemstones.
Georgian rose cut diamond cluster ring made in 15k yellow gold and sterling silver.
Centuries old jewelry is hard to find, of course, so many designers oxidize or black rhodium plate their jewelry to create a similar effect. When set with diamonds blackened metal provides a perfect backdrop, like a dark night sky, to showcase a stone’s unique twinkle and glow.
Clockwise from left: Bell & Bird Signature Cutaway Half Hoop Band, Munnu Oval Link Chain, Elsa Peretti for Tiffany Bone Cuff, Venyx Diamond Astrea Studs, Spinelli Kilcollin Sagittarius Ring, Elena Votsi Small Eros Heart Charm, Harwell Godfrey Diamond Pyramid Stud Earrings, Nancy Newberg Open Heart Charm.
My own engagement ring is a silver and gold Georgian-style clawed collet mounting. I immediately fell in love with the blackened silver bezel, the perfect frame for an old-cut diamond.
If you’re looking for a more contemporary way to wear darker jewelry consider sharp, modern pieces made with onyx or black enamel.
Clockwise from left: Matteo Onyx and Diamond Dot Necklace, Mejuri Onyx Rectangular Locket Necklace, Retrouvai Onyx Compass Necklace, NeverNoT Blue Topaz Radiate Ring, Mejuri Heart Enamel Ring, Nikos Koulis Feelings Bangle, Almasika Enamel Globe Huggies, Retrouvai Onyx Ying Yang Ring, Sorellina Onyx Button Studs, State Property Enamel Rinzo Ring, Hirotaka Pearl and Onyx Single Earring.
And if diamonds and pearls are more your speed don’t forget about their dark side. I’m loving black diamonds worn in an unexpected way (I’m looking at you, tennis bracelet!) and black pearls punctuating classic silhouettes.
Clockwise from left: Gorjana Lou Pearl Necklace, Prounis Tahitian Pearl Hoop and Hook Earrings, Mined + Found Royal Tahitian Bracelet, Sophie Buhai Tahitian Pearl Mermaid Choker, Jade Trau Kismet Stack III, Mary MacGill Tahitian Pearl Drop Earrings, Luis Morais Black Diamond Tennis Bracelet, Jennie Kwon Equilibrium Ring, Yutai Akoya Pearl Ombre Necklace, KATKIM Thread Ear Pin.
Moody jewelry doesn’t mean melancholy. The moodiness of these jewels is all about their contrast: light v. dark, shiny v. tarnished, sparkly v. subdued. It’s a reminder that jewelry doesn’t have to be all blingy diamonds to be interesting, meaningful, and precious.